Of course, one visit to Tokyo does not make an expert, but as an extreme stationery enthusiast at home, I do come well informed on this particular aspect of Japan. 🇯🇵

If you're travelling here for the first time and looking for advice on the best pen and paper focused stops to include in your itinerary, here's a quick run down on my recommendations.

I was fortunate to travel with a supremely patient husband, and on this particular trip we came here knowing the focus would be on stationery. Your spouse, family, or other travelling companions no doubt have other interests that need to be accommodated, so I’ve listed my top three destinations first. If your time is limited, I suggest prioritising those.

That said, my personal preference leans toward smaller, more focused shops. Before coming to Japan, I consulted several friends whose taste I know and trust and having now visited, I’ve found my own preferences don’t always align with theirs. In other words, while the top three on this list are my personal favourites, my best advice is to trust your own instincts. If something further down the list appeals to you, follow that instinct instead. It’s remarkably difficult not to have a good stationery experience in Tokyo!

Traveler's Factory - Nakameguro

This is the main Traveler's Factory store in Tokyo. Like all of the brand’s Tokyo locations, it’s quite small - so if you’re visiting at a busy time, be prepared to wait and expect a fairly crowded shopping experience.

That said, for Traveler’s Notebook fans, this is an unmissable stop and a chance to fully immerse yourself in the brand. Be sure to collect the store-specific stamps as you go.

There are also Traveler’s Factory stores in Tokyo Station and at Narita Airport (your arrival point if you’re flying directly from Auckland), and each shop has its own exclusive items.

Tsutaya Books Daikanyama

This is a large bookstore - part of a well-known chain - stocking titles in both English and Japanese, but it felt to me more like a design store.

Alongside the books, you’ll find a range of interesting art items, as well as a substantial, high-quality stationery section, part of which was this illuminated wall of fountain pens:

The Shibuya location is a campus-style space, complete with cafes, established trees, and plenty of places to sit, making it easy to linger. There’s more than enough here to keep even non–stationery-loving travel companions happily occupied for an hour or two.

Kakimori 

Probably best known for their inks and dip pens, Kakimori is located in the Taito area, a charming part of Tokyo that I’ve seen described as the “Brooklyn of Tokyo” thanks to its concentration of small, independent makers.

Mr Blackwell and I took their ink-blending class, where you create your own custom bottle of ink - a truly unique souvenir to take home. I made a browny-red shade inspired by tuna sashimi and Mr Blackwell made this shade he decided to name 'Disney Purple'.

Other places I really liked and would easily round out my Top Five

Kyukyodo 

This one received the most mixed reviews from my friends, and I can definitely understand why it divides opinion. Kyukyodo is a very traditional Japanese paper store that has been in business since the 1600s. Upstairs you’ll find incense and calligraphy supplies, while downstairs is dedicated entirely to paper - and when I say paper, I really mean paper: sheets, pads, envelopes, and postcards.

You’ll never realise how many shades of cream exist until you’ve been here!

Later in our trip I visited their Kyoto store, which is much more appealing, but for me, I could look at different sheets of paper for ages. If you’re in Ginza visiting Itoya, Muji, Loft, or Ancora (detailed below), I'd recommend popping into Kyukyodo as well.

Plotter

This one will feel quite small and specialised for many visitors, and Plotter is also relatively unknown brand in New Zealand as they don't currently export through overseas resellers the way Traveler's Notebook do (note: Traveler's Company, M.D. Paper and Plotter all share the same parent company, DesignPhil). 

However, the six-ring binding system has been popular in Japan and New Zealand for many years, and this is a premium offering that blends the spirit of Traveler’s Company with something like a Filofax.

If you purchase a leather cover here, the staff will put on white gloves and present you with two options to choose from, allowing you to select the leather cover that most appeals to you. If you're after a premium stationery experience, this one is for you.

Other Tokyo Stationery Places You Might Like

Itoya

Does 12 floors of stationery sound like a dream? Then this stop is for you. If you’re looking for something specific from a well-known brand, or just getting started with your interest in stationery, this is a great place to see a huge range of quality items in one location.

There have been times in my life when I would have loved this place, but these days I’m familiar with most of the items here this kind of packed, high-energy shopping experience is just not for my country bumpkin tastes!

Across the street from the main store is a three-level specialty location with a children's store, and a customised invitation / customised stationery level, and on the ground floor a gallery-like space with featured items. Mr Blackwell gave this ground-floor location two thumbs up.

Miju and Loft

While not strictly stationery stores, both Muji and Loft carry a wide range of stationery at very reasonable prices. Like my feelings about Itoya, I’m personally not especially drawn to this style of shopping - not because there’s anything wrong with the products, but because I prefer a calmer, more sedate browsing experience.

It’s also very easy to overbuy here, simply because so many appealing things cost only a few dollars each.

Ancora

My opinion of this place may be controversial and differs from several people I trust and respect. Ancora is a store where you can assemble your own fountain pen from component parts for a relatively modest price (around NZD $50), and it’s also known for its inks.

For me, the finished pen didn’t feel particularly satisfying to use - there are definitely better writing experiences available in that price range - and the colour selection, when I visited, didn’t feel especially inspiring.

That said, plenty of other visitors clearly enjoyed the experience, so it may simply come down to personal preference.

Tobichi

Home of the Hobonichi planner. This was probably the most underwhelming of all our stops, although I did have very high expectations going in.

Japan is a prolific user of plastic, and even Hobonichi had many of its plastic items wrapped in additional plastic. The store layout felt a bit awkward, with most of the merchandise concentrated on one side, meaning any visitor with a backpack (of which there were several) can effectively block an entire aisle. 

That said, the location itself is a real highlight. You’ll get off the train in Jimbocho - Tokyo’s famous “Book Town” which is absolutely worth exploring in its own right.

MT Tape Lab

A very small space, but packed with an impressive range of washi tape. It’s also within walking distance of Kakimori, making MT Tape Lab an easy addition if you’re spending time in the area.

An obvious stop for committed washi enthusiasts, or anyone who enjoys a bit of colour and pattern.

Eslite Books

Eslite is a Taiwanese bookstore chain that, like Tsutaya, incorporates a strong stationery offering. When we visited, there was a nice MD Paper display showcasing some of their newer products.

A calm, well-designed space that rewards a slow browse.

Touch and Flow

Something about Touch and Flow gave me the impression it might be a pop-up, although there wasn’t any signage to confirm that.

It carried a very interesting range of Japanese stamps, with a focus on tactile, design-led pieces that felt a little different from the usual stationery offerings.

Non-Stationery Advice from Mrs Blackwell

Trains: The train system in Tokyo can look intimidating at first, but it’s actually incredibly easy to get the hang of. If you’ve ever navigated public transport in a major Western city like London or New York, you’ll find Tokyo straightforward. And even if you haven’t, you’ll likely pick it up quickly.

While taxis are readily available and Uber also operates here, you’ll get further, travel faster, and save a significant amount of money by using the trains. If you have an iPhone, simply enter your destination into Apple Maps for clear, colour-coded, step-by-step directions from A to B. Don’t be afraid my friend!

Double check the time to walk: We found Tokyo to be a very walkable city, and for shorter journeys, walking can often take about the same amount of time as navigating the train system. It also gives you the chance to discover all sorts of interesting details along the way that you’d otherwise miss.

A note on photography: Photography and video inside Japanese stores is generally frowned upon, and in many cases outright prohibited. Taking photos of the exterior of shops is usually fine, but it’s always best to check signage or ask if you’re unsure.

Ask me about Kyoto: After Tokyo, we travelled to Kurashiki (home to The Superior Labor) and then on to Kyoto. I had many excellent stationery experiences in Kyoto as well, so if you’re heading that way, feel free to email me and I’m happy to share a list of recommendations.